One Golden Ticket, Please
Discovering that the Black Forest might just be Germany’s best-kept secret—or my worst navigational failure.
I got on the train and cuddled up to my backpack. My head resting on the widow, I watched the city of Verona slide past me through the window. Thank God that was over—or at least behind me, literally.
I had plans to explore Strasbourg, but something in me craved solitude, mystery, and a chance to wander into the unknown. So, I chose Offenburg, Germany—a charming crossroads nestled between the Rhine Valley and the Black Forest.
When I first got there I was pretty down so I figured I would buy myself some flowers for my room. On my way through the hotel I dropped a few off at the reception desk and on the maid cart. If nothing else, I hoped a little unexpected kindness might shift the energy of the day.
When I arrived, I asked the hotel receptionist for directions to the Black Forest. She gave me a blank look and shrugged. “No idea.”
How could that be? Every guidebook calls Offenburg the gateway to the Black Forest. Endless trails, rolling hills, enchanting villages? Not for me. The elusive forest remained out of reach, just like the perfect travel jacket I was still hunting for.
They say Offenburg is a town of history, culture, and romance. So I set out to find all of it. And I did, because I am counting buying the flowers for myself and the hotel staff as romantic.
In general, on the daily I walk about ten miles. I love being on foot. I feel like you see so much more that way. And Offenburg is adorable. Its cobblestone streets, timbered houses, and lively squares feel like stepping into a storybook.
As the day wore on, the sunset painted the town in fiery shades. I promised myself no antics this time—I’d watch the spectacle from my hotel balcony. But when the colors exploded, I was running the streets again, chasing the light like a madwoman.
That night, wandering back to my hotel, I heard music drifting through the streets. I followed it, stepping into a corridor that opened into a fish market party. In the center of the square, a massive boat was dishing out food while locals laughed and danced.
I bought a beer and sat down to amuse myself with strangers. Kind of hard to do when you don’t talk to anyone or speak the language. I chugged and left, I was tired of trying to figure out anything else today.
Once I was back at the hotel I looked at the train schedule and decided to make a side trip into Gengenbach in the morning. Why not?
The next day, the train ride itself was an adventure. I watched as a too-tall, too-drunk man was practically carried onto the train by his friends. They’d clearly been out all night. Once I stepped off, though, Gengenbach was a dream—a preserved medieval town straight out of a fairy tale. Its half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, and flower-filled squares gave me chills.
Once I made a right turn down a side street it was as if I had stepped into a fairytale. Renowned for its beautifully preserved medieval architecture and charming atmosphere, it’s no wonder Gengenbach is often called "the pearl of the Black Forest."
As I wandered through this enchanting town, it’s easy to see why it has inspired filmmakers and artists alike—it even served as a backdrop for the film Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
I wandered into an antique shop, half-jokingly looking for a golden ticket. Instead, I found a set of photography glass plates—too cheap to pass up, too fragile to travel easily. Buying them meant checking my carry-on, repacking everything, and praying they’d survive the journey. I bought them anyway. They’ll be an art piece when I get home—or a reminder of the risk.
(You may remember my hard boiled incident of 2024 if you follow me. What a risk that was. Taht flight attendant will never forgive me and neither will my brother or my seat mate.)
Ugh. Anyways.
Gengenbach’s rich history dates back over a thousand years, and its old-world charm is reflected in its iconic landmarks. The town’s towering Rathaus (town hall) is famous for transforming into the world’s largest advent calendar during the holiday season, with its 24 windows each revealing a festive surprise throughout December.
The Benedictine Abbey of Gengenbach, with its stunning Baroque architecture, offers a glimpse into the town’s monastic past and serves as a cultural and spiritual cornerstone. It is also a place they will yell at you if you take photographs inside. (I swear there was NO sign saying otherwise.)
After I was instantly disliked by the congregation, I was hungry. I knew they were not going to offer me anything so I headed across the bridge to a building that seemed to be calling my name.
Surrounded by lush vineyards and rolling hills, Gengenbach is not only a feast for the eyes but also for the palate. The town is part of the Baden wine region and I was looking to sip a glass of wine at a cozy wine tavern in town.
It always sounds so romantic in my head when I read about places. Then I get there and I am greeted by an over anxious waitress at an understaffed bar. She seats me at a table across from a bamboo screen which semi hides a man playing on a poker machine. Angerly, mostly.
I order a glass of wine, a salad and a slice of meatloaf. She tries to talk me out of it, saying the portions are very large. I told her I had not eaten all day so I am confident in my ability to ingest all of it.
She wasn’t lying. It was a huge plate of meatloaf. I wasn’t lying either, I ate the whole thing. It was the second best meal I had in Europe. I intended on going back there again the next day. But inspiration strikes again…
That night, as the train carried me back to Offenburg, I made up my mind: Tomorrow, I was finding the Black Forest. I wanted to walk where Hansel and Gretel once wandered, to feel the shadows of the Brothers Grimm tales creeping into my bones. I wanted to step into the mystique of the forest and let its stories haunt me all the way back to America.
And so I went—but what I found? That’s a tale for another time. Stay close, though. The forest has a way of keeping its secrets. So do dinner dates in Italy.